Archive for April, 2011

A Taste of Expat Life

Serendipitously, we met a fellow-Canadian who owns a beautiful villa with a guest house.  The villa is 15 minutes drive from Pelangi school, and 30 minutes from Ubud.  Our friend and his Balinese wife are letting us stay at his villa for our last 2 weeks in Bali, for budget-hotel prices.  The villa has a huge pool and is set peacefully amongst rice fields.  It’s a great way to finish off our trip and soak in the beauty for a while longer.

We have much more space at the villa, including a garden with a swing-set and a huge pool with kid’s floaty toys.  We also have access to a small kitchen, where we can prepare a quick meal, and where I made cookies in a toaster-oven for after-school snacks (the staff were amazed at my cooking skills!).  Theo and Vivi even have a new 6-year old buddy here.

But the biggest bonus for us all is Ketut, the villa’s smiley housekeeper and cook.  Instead of yet another stressful, sit-down restaurant dinner with cranky kids, the kids can play in the pool, climb trees, or play games with their parents until dinner is ready.   The “witching hour” has suddenly become pleasant.  For Ketut alone,  I would move here (I’d also move for “Superman”, the villa’s favorite shiatsu therapist . . .but that’s another story).

Dan is taking off to Hong Kong next week for a trade-show;  and we’ll all meet up in Singapore a week later.

I may not be able to post again for a while due to minimal computer access.  Soon, we begin our long journey home.  Next time you see us, we’ll probably still be jet-lagged!

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What About Homeschooling?

My personal opinion is that Theo and Vivi are doing a huge amount of “experiential learning” on our trip.  This more than compensates for the few months of kindergarten and grade two that they are missing.  However, we have also been proactive with the kids’ education.

We must have the Calgary grade 2 curriculum almost covered:  insects (cockroaches, a praying mantis, giant bees, spiders, butterflies and caterpillars, dragonflies, ant highways, and almost every other insect you can think of, but super-sized).  We’re also okay for “unique communities”, telling time, fractions, music, swimming, reading, and writing.

Theo’s menu-reading skills are a actually a bit of a problem:  “Vivi, there’s a kid’s meal!  Chicken nuggets and fries, and they have milkshakes!  What kind do you want, strawberry?”).

Vivi completed her Kindergarten curriculum last year in junior kindergarten, and had started working on grade one material in Calgary this year.  The kindergarten curriculum of safety and community awareness were covered here in unique ways for her:  earthquake safety training, and a visit to the Ubud post office.   Socially, we are not concerned:  she makes friends wherever she goes.

That said, the kids are still doing a fair amount of academic work.  They are completing a daily journal, and I am especially impressed with Theo’s effort.  He doesn’t want to miss recording a day or an activity, so I’ve had to encourage him to not take it quite so seriously.  Vivi needs more help but is a up to copying out a paragraph in her own words.  We also read books,  and play games such as Bananograms (like scrabble), Professor Noggins, “31”, and  “gin rummy”.  Vivi usually beats us all at “31”.

My pre-trip visit to the Calgary Waldorf school was also well-worth the gems we brought along:  The Wise Enchanter  (a journey through the alphabet), The Burgess Animal Book, The Eight-Year Old Legend Book, and Homer’s Odyssey for kids.

Besides all this, the kids will have attended a total of 4 weeks at Pelangi School here in Bali.  Pelangi was started by Canadian and American expats as a Waldorf style school, but is now following the English curriculum.  I find it a great mix of a gentle approach, along with solid academics.  The teachers are Indonesian, and the kids learn Indonesian and English.  I especially love the school cafe:  $2.50 for each child and I don’t have to worry about lunch or snacks!

The setting for Pelangi is ideal:  in a quiet rice field, with open-air Bamboo buildings.  The majority of kids are foreign as there is a cost, although much less than Green School.  There is also a significant Balinese attendance, with fee reductions and some expats sponsoring local kids.  Vivi had a slight bit of difficulty adjusting at first, as most of the kids in her class speak more Indonesian and Balinese than English.

Both kids are very excited about their upcoming school concert on Earth Day.  Theo is especially proud of his new drumming skills and is asking for a Bongo for his birthday.  If only I could transport Pelangi back to Calgary when we have to go home!

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Amed, East Bali

Three hours from Ubud, Amed is a collection of small fishing villages dotting the eastern coastline of Bali.  The area is quite remote and undeveloped compared to other places we’ve been in Bali.

Although spread out over a few kilometres, Amed has quite a few “warungs” (small local restaurants), a number of home-stays and backpacker’s bungalows, and a few nicer hotels.  My guess is that in 10-20 years, this area will look completely different, as development moves in on a bigger scale.

Being low tourist season, it was very quiet (except for the roosters and motos of course).  We were approached regularly by hawkers selling miniature fishing boats or kites, and schoolchildren selling necklaces and bracelets to help pay for school.

We stayed in a hill-side hotel, with a fabulous view over the ocean.  Unfortunately, the view was the best part, as the young local owner seemed overwhelmed with running the hotel and overseeing new building of bungalows.  He frequently complained that money was running out (foreign investment).  It seemed to me as if the investing partner had put up the money, and then left the local owner alone with a management job that he (and his family) was ill-prepared for.

A main draw for the Amed area is diving and snorkeling.  There is a wide variety of professional diving experiences offered, including night dives, wall-dives, and WWII ship-wreck diving, all apparently rivaling the best in the world.  We opted not to dive, given the excellent snorkeling, the expense of diving, and then there’s those kids to take care of.

Theo and Vivi have become quite good swimmers and snorkelers during our trip, although Vivi was frustrated that she couldn’t dive when snorkeling (we made her wear a life-jacket in the ocean).  The snorkeling off the beach was quite impressive, with many schools of colorful fish and some cool coral formations.

My favorite place in Amed was Jemelek Beach, a small fishing community with great snorkeling off the beach, some low-key restaurants and home-stays, and thriving village life.  Vivi and I went snorkeling there one morning and didn’t leave until sunset.  The restaurants here were also some of the best and cheapest, so we could indulge with iced coffees (me), milkshakes (Vivi), and fruit lassies.

Every evening on Jemelek Beach, local kids of all ages would play together in the ocean or on the beach, until sunset.  Popular games included soccer, high-jump (the only landing pad being the hard rocky sand), and hook & line fishing.   When we ate in a restaurant, various members of the family would be coming in and out, often carrying a baby on their hips.

Amed would be the perfect place for a young backpacker to chill out for a while, stay with a local family, rent a motorcycle, get a diving certification, and learn yoga.

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Bali: Island of the Gods

Bali is literally a nusa dewata Bali, or “island of deities Bali”.   It is the only surviving Hindu island in the world’s largest Muslim country of Indonesia.  Balinese are extremely proud of their culture, family structure, and religion.

I am still surprised and amazed at the apparent depth of commitment that Balinese have to their culture and religion.  The Balinese calendar is full of ceremonial dates, and daily life involves multiple offerings and blessings.  Significant amounts of time are spent making daily offerings to various spirits or preparing for celebrations.  Some expats we’ve met roll their eyes at yet “another ceremony” that shuts down traffic, or has their staff leaving for home villages for weeks at a time on a regular basis.

Temples are ubiquitous, present in every household and every village, and in many other natural areas.  Offerings are made daily by women of the household, by people on their way to work, or just when passing by a special place (usually a small basket filled with flowers, rice, and incense, with various other items often added, such as crackers).  Ceremonial processions are a common sight, with participants of all ages dressed beautifully and carrying elaborate offerings.  Gamelan is often heard throughout Ubud and during processions.

The Balinese Hindu religion apparently is nothing like Indian Hinduism.  Rather, it is a unique combination of Hinduism and Buddhism, with animistic influences.  To me, it seems very complicated.  It is all orchestrated by the Brahman priests (and their families), who are charged with leading village spiritual life.

When Balinese go about all these offerings and ceremonies, they have the 4-limbed Balinese swastika in mind.  With humans in the center, it exemplifies the desired balance between humans, God above, plants and animals on the side limbs, and the earth on the bottom.  All must live in harmony and support each other.  While there is only one true God in Balinese Hinduism, God may manifest in many different ways and in many different things.  All life is sacred.

Wayan, an experienced tour-guide, explained it in this way:  sometimes he is known as “father”, sometimes “son”, sometimes “tour guide”, etc., but his spirit remains the same.  Thus, the offerings to the “spirit of the tree”, or “spirit of Krishna or Ganesha”, are offerings to different manifestations of God.

When Wayan dies, his spirit will rest in the graveyard temple until cremation, at which time it will come back to the family temple.  At some time in the future, his spirit will be reincarnated, into a new baby within his extended family.  About 40 days after a baby is born, a priest will determine who’s spirit is reincarnated in the baby.  Wayan said that it is often uncanny how the person’s character is so similar to that of the deceased person.

The  results of this constant daily focus on living with the Gods, seems on my first impressions to be quite positive.  As a culture, I would use the word “mindful” to describe most Balinese.  They seem to understand that they are a part of a greater whole, and that their collective responsibility is greater than their individuality.  For example, they use Nyepi day to help purify the entire world, not just Bali.  I have witnessed extreme patience and tolerance, and an impressive sense of humour.  There is a strong concept of Yin/Yang, that in everything is both negative and positive, and that these must be honoured and kept in balance.

The extended family structure seems to be an ideal situation for children.  Although most don’t have much in the way of material things, kids often have large extended families in a culture that adores children, all living in one compound or at least in the same village.  Babies are carried constantly for 3 months, at which time they have a ground touching ceremony.  The women work hard, but have constant female camaraderie and support in the way of child-care.  Families sleep together in one bed.  Even “attachment parenting” can’t compete with all this!  It is more like “the attachment village”.

I have also been touched at the gentleness of the men, the way the older boys and men interact with, care for and joke with the younger children.  There isn’t much in the way of Macho behavior.  The men seemed somehow “filled up”, or secure and connected to each other, in ways that many Western men seem to be missing.

Tourism and development are rapidly changing some of these dynamics.  We have no plans to even visit Kuta, otherwise known as the playground for young Australians, complete with any hedonistic activity anyone could want, at cheap prices.   Now that rice farming is less and less common among this generation, many children are not living traditional lives.  Wayan says that his children don’t want to farm or work with the tourists.  They want to go to university and get professional certifications, so that they can have lives much different from those of their parents.

A highlight of my visit here would have to be visiting Besakih, the most sacred temple on the island, on the most sacred mountain, Mt. Agung.  We visited on one of the most important days of the year, on the full moon.  It also happened to be the most important full-moon day in ten years.  The different spirit manifestations are said to come down and inhabit the family temples for a time.  The temple was filled with people coming to pray, receive blessings, make offerings, dance, and just hang out with large extended families.

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Three hours drive from Ubud, up a meandering mountain pass road, and down “Snake Road”, is the town of Lovina.  We arrived somewhat nauseated, but were much refreshed by the lovely “welcome drink”, offered on guest’s arrival by nearly every hotel.

The ocean was a nice change, after 2 1/2 weeks in Ubud.  Vivianne was especially thrilled, as she is our little beach girl – she could spend entire days hunting for shells and digging in the sand.  Our small hotel was certainly set in paradise, with the most beautiful gardens surrounding the pool area.   A short walk through the rice paddie was a local fishing beach.

Although only here for two days, we managed to do two of the area’s main tourist activities:  snorkeling and sunrise dolphin watching.  We also spent a fair amount of time being engaged by and trying to avoid hawkers;  it is slow season in Bali and the smaller areas seem especially desperate for tourist dollars.  One man in particular seemed to show up on his moto at several points throughout our days, with various items for sale.  Finally, Dan, giving credit for persistence, gave in and bought a few trinkets (and provided fodder for a “life-lesson” for Théo).

Both the snorkeling and dolphin watching were done from local outrigger fishing boats.  Luckily we had brought a life-jacket from home for Vivi, and masks for us all, as the equipment was questionable.  We were also concerned by the chugging sound coming from our motor;  it reminded me of one of the old farm tractors.  Who knows why the dolphins keep coming back each morning to be chased down by a fleet of noisy outboard motors.

Disconnected from internet, we didn’t hear about the Japan earthquake until 2 days after it happened.  Apparently our area had been put on tsunami alert, but we had no idea!  The night before the big earthquake, I had felt tremors in Ubud.  We started feeling a bit vulnerable, and booked our next beach accommodation on a hillside location!

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